There are some place that, no matter how long you’ve been away, always feel like home. I’ve been fortunate enough to discover a few of these places in my travels, but one in particular is closest to my heart. For the next month I’ll be camping out in Puerto Escondido, a sleepy beach town on Mexico’s Oaxacan coast, where stress factors are non-existent and it seems that people are all out of fucks to give. It’s heaven.
It’s one of those rare towns where authenticity and tourism seem to gel in harmony. Aussie surfers crush waves at dawn, while proprietors still speak first to patrons in Spanish only. By night, beachside surf bars with sandy floors and thatched roofs crank out Reggaton as French Canadians and Israelis sip mezcal, while Oaxaquena women grill up delicious tlayudas on open, charcoal grills outside the local mini mart. I love this place.
I am staying at Hotel Aqua Luna, the creation of Australian expat Clive and his Mexican wife, Adriana. The two opened this hotel as a haven for surfers and the perpetual chasers of chill. A small amount of rooms, some with kitchens for long-term stays, cluster around a central pool and snack area with pool table. The rooftop has a small jacuzzi and lounge chairs for catching the sunset, which is always stunning in this corner of the world.
The main drag, Calle El Morro, is a single stretch with tacky surf shops, boutiques, cafes, and, of course, beach bars. The beach itself, Playa Zicatela, is massively wide with waves that are legendary throughout the world.
It’s difficult to describe the magic of this place without experiencing it for yourself. I’ve made lifelong friends here in lightning fast amounts of time. Kindred spirits seem to find each other in this place. Once it touches your heart, you’re forever changed, and it’s very difficult to ever envision going back to who you once were.
I hope you’ll stick around with me as I continue to explore hidden beaches, natural wonders, fun restaurants, and encounter other wayward souls. Viva Mexico! Viva Puerto!